Chris Brock Is Mr August

1

Personality of Lennox and Surfing Elder

Birthplace: Sydney

Star sign: Libra

Favourite food: Spinach Pie. Varieties of lentil and rice dishes

It is rare for a surfer anywhere in the world to have a surf break named after them, but the section of the reef beyond the boardwalk at Lennox Head, is known by surfers far and wide as ‘Brocky’s’, after local surfing legend Chris Brock.

Chris has enjoyed surfing and residing near that end of town overlooking the reef for decades.

Look further into the barrel of surfing history, back to October 1970 when Chris appeared on the first ever news-stand cover (a term used when they used to fold the magazines in half to display them) of the iconic surfing magazine, Tracks.

In 1962, while on one of his many school holiday camping surf trips, travelling to Byron by train with his Bondi mates, Chris scored a lift and first surfed Lennox beach just south of the pub.

Chris says, ‘The attraction to this area for a young surf-stoked mal rider was addictive!’

Leaving school in 1968 he came up for an extensive stay and then met George Greenough who was making the surf movie The Inner Most Limits of Pure Fun. With the onset of summer northerly winds Chris headed back to Sydney and got a job making surfboards.

On returning to the North Coast in the winter of 1969, he scored a job with Bob McTavish making boards in Yamba. With the movie still a work in progress, Chris again became involved in the production helping George with filming.

While living and surfing around Yamba and Angourie, the most anticipated and exciting times for the crew were always the pilgrimages to Lennox chasing the big south swells.

As it worked out Chris was lucky enough to be featured in some of the most memorable footage of Alby Falzon’s all-time classic surf movie Morning of the Earth where his fluid surfing performance on the long peeling waves of Lennox Point has become legend.

The coinciding arrival of the 1970’s saw the popularity of George’s and Falzon’s movies bring surfers from all over the globe to visit or migrate permanently to the region.

Chris still had a dream of surfing the waves of the Pacific and for the next six years he sailed around, living and working between Hawaii, New Zealand and Tahiti. But his thoughts were always drifting back to this incredible part of the world and the waves off Lennox Point.

Returning in 1977 he started working at Sky Surfboards in Byron. Throughout the years he went on to individually carve out a reputation shaping his own signature boards that always focused on creative innovation over commercial trends.

By the early 1980’s he was renting a house in front of Brocky’s, and the rest is surfing history! (He’s still there to this day.)

Best thing about Lennox?

The beauty and magnificence is better than anywhere.

Worst thing: Nothing really bad about Lennox.

Hobbies:

Numerology. All types of music like Jazz Blues fusion and funk.

Life Philosophy:

Take it as it comes, good or bad. Perfect practise makes perfect.

One Response

  1. Louise Jones

    Loving reading about the legendary Chris Brock. He’s not only famous in the surfing world but he is one of the most down to earth and kindest people I know. I’ve had the pleasure of knowing him for over 30 years. Good one Brocky !!!

    Reply

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